Noël, the cheeky cheesemonger who makes Italy shine

A presence. A light blue gaze that lights up as soon as you approach his stall. His weathered face tells of years spent outdoors, under awnings, chatting, joking, selling as naturally as breathing. He runs his stall with authority, warmth, and a touch of cheekiness.

With him, the cheeses are not just lined up: they are presented, almost staged, each with its own little story that he tells with a gesture or a complicit wink. Then there is his voice, which laughs easily, which teases gently. That old-school merchant voice throwing you an "I adore you" as natural as a hello.

In Cuers, people come back as much for his cheeses as for the man.

Noël is that rare mix: the look of an old-timer of the market, an overflowing humanity, a tender cheekiness that builds loyalty as much as his products. In Cuers, his "I adore you" has become a ritual, almost a signature. And every Friday, between two umbrellas, he continues to bring Italy on a platter, and also, a bit of human warmth.

The interview: You are a figure of the Cuers market. How long have you been here? Noël.

I've been in Cuers for 19 years. I've had a wonderful clientele for years. Me, I bring Italy here, at Italy's prices.

My recipe is simple: quality and accessible prices. Today, everyone needs to be able to treat themselves.

We hear you saying "I adore you" all morning long. Is it your secret or is it just you? Noël.

It's my nature. I say that all day long to everyone. I try to bring joy.

With the current context, there is a lot of sadness, a lot of uncertainty. So me, I try to be a little ray of sunshine. And people return the favor.

What do you like most here: the people, the atmosphere, or the fact that you never stop talking? Noël.

I love to talk, I am of Italian origin, that's just how it is. But what I love most of all is my clientele. Lovely people, loyal for years.

I could stop the markets, I have three shops, but I come gladly. The contact, the atmosphere... that's what I like.

You go to Italy yourself to choose your cheeses. What do you go looking for over there? Noël.

I cut out the middleman. I deal directly with my producers. I have my cheeses gathered in a platform in Piémont. I have been working with them for 19 years. That is my strength: quality and price.

For you, what is a real Italian cheese? Noël.

Parmesan, pecorino sardo, all sheep's milk cheeses with no coloring or preservatives. It's a joy to eat that.

Is there a cheese that tells your story? Noël.

Parmesan. My uncle is a producer. Thanks to him, I get the best wheels. The making, the aging cellars, it's fabulous.

Your stall always attracts crowds. How do you explain this popularity? Noël.

I work the old-fashioned way. Refrigerated display cases, no barrier with the customer. I chat, I joke. I am about contact. And it works.

Tell me about a typical scene on your Friday morning. Noël.

When there are crowds, I take the liberty of telling many people that I adore them. Many are alone. We chat, we laugh, we create an atmosphere. And it's natural, it comes from the heart.

A customer who made an impression on you? Noël.

Many elderly people. Some are no longer here today. I miss them. They came to buy their cheese, but also to chat. It was an important moment of exchange for them. Fortunately, I continue with the others.

You always have so much energy. Is it natural or is it your fuel? Noël.

It's natural. I love my job. Everything comes from the heart. Do you realize that you've become a character here?

Noël. It touches me. I love my job because of that. I get my strength back from that contact.

Your job in one sentence? Noël.

Contact with people. Selling them a product they can't find in supermarkets. I want people to eat authentic products of yesteryear. I also sell a bit of cold meats and pasta.

How do you choose a perfect cheese? Noël.

I go to my producers, I look at the production, the final product. If there are coloring agents or preservatives, I don't take it.

Which cheese to discover Italy without taking a plane? Noël. Hard cheeses.

My parmesan, of course, pecorino in all its forms. I bring them Italy on a platter, with Italy's prices. My strength is that I have no middlemen.

Quick fire questions to finish. If I say to you "cheese is life"? Noël.

Cheese is life. A meal without cheese is not a meal. It's conviviality, happiness.

Is Friday your favorite day or your marathon? Noël. One of my favorite days.

Cuers remains a village, despite its 13,000 inhabitants. Word of mouth travels fast. And I come here with great pleasure.

You give out a lot of samples... To sell? Noël.

To make them discover new things and people appreciate it. And they come back.

Do you prefer a customer who hesitates or a customer who knows? Noël.

The one who knows, it's simpler. The one who hesitates, it's up to me to help them discover good things.

And do you have the good taste for that? Noël. Apparently yes.

But that's because I love my job. I could stop the markets tomorrow, but I love the contact.

Where does your "I adore you" come from? Noël.

From the La Ciotat market. One day, I said it, it just came naturally. And it stuck. I say it all the time.

Any final words? Noël.

I am happy doing this job. I wouldn't change it for anything in the world. April 2020 - #259